Montserrat

Montserrat is a picturesque mountain range located just outside of Barcelona, Spain, and is a popular destination for rock climbers from all over the world.  The area boasts over 4,000 climbing routes to choose from (see thecrag.com for details), ranging from easy beginner climbs to more challenging routes for experienced climbers.  It is an especially good area for practicing multi-pitch climbs as there are numerous routes up the formations and many involve several pitches.  

Montserrat is composed of conglomerate (cobblestone) rock, which is a type of sedimentary rock made up of different-sized fragments of rock and pebbles that have been cemented together over time. The unique shape and structure of the rock formations in Montserrat were formed through millions of years of erosion from wind and water, as well as the movements of the Earth’s tectonic plates. The peaks and spires are the result of the harder, more resistant rock formations that remained after the softer sedimentary rock was eroded away. The result is a stunning landscape that is both beautiful and challenging for climbers. 

Can Jorba – El Gronxador

On our first day, we climbed in a crag called Can Jorba in a sector called El Gronxador.   It is referred to on TheCrag.com as Columpi.  I attempted to climb High Moon Penny which is listed in our climbing book as 5c.  However, I was unable to finish as the route was very polished and challenging towards the top.  TheCrag.com actually lists the route as 6a+ which would make more sense.  Bi was able to finish the route by traversing to the left to Poma 6a which shares the same anchor.  I then also flashed (flash = climbing without falling but with some prior knowledge like watching someone else climb it) Poma though beginning from the ground. 

From the top of L’hora Violeta

Looking down from the top of L’hora Violeta

Next Bi onsighted (onsight = climbing without falling and with no prior knowledge) and I flashed L’hora Violeta 5c (listed on TheCrag.com as 6b).  Bi then climbed El Geperut 6b+ which she hangdogged (hangdogged = climbed to the top but with falls or rests on gear)  but was able to complete.  I was super impressed she finished the route as it was extremely difficult.  I just decided to top rope it but thought it was quite challenging even on top rope.

Gorros – Magdelena Inferior (Multi-Pitch!!!)

On our second day, we drove to the Montserrat Monastery and from there hiked about 17 minutes up the long stairway to the ruined Anna’s Hermitage.  From there we turned left and hiked to Saint Joan’s Cable Car station and then on to the enormous spires nearby that seem to jut up from the ground like massive teeth reaching hundreds of meters into the sky.   

We climbed on a columnar formation or spire called Magdelena Inferior.   It was one of my goals for the year to do a multi-pitch on our own so we identified a route called Rantanplan 5a.  The routes are not clearly marked but I believe, in retrospect, that we were actually on route La Que Hi Faltaven Spits which is another easy multi-pitch just to the left of Rantanplan.  At any rate, we successfully completed 4 pitches and then rappelled back down the route.  We made a few mistakes in rope handling and anchoring that I would change next time but overall it went well.  However, it was super windy near the top and got quite cold so we were freezing our butts off by the time we got back down.  Next time, I would definitely bring a backpack with water, snacks, etc. and wear or bring a jacket and hat.  I was really excited at having done it though!  Check out the short (<1min) video of the multi-pitch adventure by clicking on the image below:  

What a cool experience!  My general ratings on this spot are below but it does not convey the feeling.  The hike is gorgeous and the multi-pitch was unforgettable!

Can Jorba – Placa de la Pluja & El Manantial

On our last day, we attempted to climb at Placa de la Pluja. This sector is right behind and above the Can Jorba farmhouse but it is fairly high up the mountain.  So, you have to go down the road a bit further to the left and then cut up the mountain on a path right next to ruined stone building.  However, from there the path splits into a million little paths and it becomes very easy to get lost.  So . . . we got lost.  We ended up climbing a couple short routes (I would guess 5c and 6a) we found in un-marked sectors and then we decided to come back down to the farmhouse and go to El Manantial.

From the top of Supersic 6a+

El Manantial is much easier to locate as it is down a clear path to the right of the farmhouse that leads to the base of the wall.  Bi onsighted and I flashed an unnamed 6a just to the left of Golden Gay.  Then Bi onsighted and I flashed Supersic 6a+ which was a challenging but fantastic route with small holds and balancy moves. 

Summary

We found Montserrat highly unique in terms of both the type of rock (conglomerate or cobblestone) and in terms of the rock formations which often appear like serrated teeth along a ridge.  It took us a day or so to adapt to the rock so others might want to keep this in mind and start off on lower grades.  Bi says she thinks it helps to think of the stones cemented in the rock as little steps on a cobblestone pathway.  I found it useful to look at each protruding stone as a potential hold versus looking for pockets or flakes.  The hiking is spectacular even if you do not climb and, for sure, the multi-pitches up the columns/teeth are fantastic!  I would highly recommend visiting and exploring this area!