April 17, 2022

The Alhambra (Al-Hamra or The Red One) is a vast complex of palaces, gardens, and fortresses located in Andalusia Spain. The original palace, gardens, and fortifications were begun by Muhammad I Ibn al-Ahmar in 1238. He was founder of the Emirate of Granada and his dynasty, the Nasrid Dynasty, was the last Muslim dynasty to rule in the Iberian Peninsula. His family ruled Granada from 1230 to 1492 after which the lands were surrendered to Queen Isabella I of Castile. Ferdinand and Queen Isabella then held their Royal Court at the Alhambra and it is where Christopher Columbus received Royal endorsement for his expedition which led to the discovery of the Americas.

The Alhambra is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the best preserved palaces of historic Islamic architecture. However, the site also includes a Renaissance style palace commissioned in 1592 by Charles V of Spain.

The Layout of the site is below:

Upon entering The Alhambra, you are met by large walls with dry moats and ramparts but surrounded by manicured trees and gardens.

As you pass beyond the walls, the path through towering green shrubs trimmed into shapes that correspond with the outer defensive walls.

Between the arches, you can see the Convento de San Francisco (Monastery of San Francisco) that was converted from a former Nasrid Islamic Palace of an Unknown Prince. Now it is a hotel and you can actually stay there for 500 EUR/night if you don’t mind all the tourists walking through. There are some secluded private areas but I felt you could see enough of the main portions with the general pass.

Past the Monastery, you walk past the ruins of the public pool area and pavilions but they are mostly just foundations in the ground with the structures long since demolished. However, the smaller Bano de la Mezquita which are the steam baths were much more interesting. The steam baths are typically located near the mosques and are where worshipers would purify themselves before prayer but also gather to socialize.

The Islamic Mosque used to stand next to the steam baths where the Church of Santa Maria de la Alhambra currently stands.

The church was closed when I visited but if you walk around the church, you come to the Jardines del Partal which are amazing and lead to the Palacio del Partal. The Palacio del Partal was built by Muhammad III in the 14th century which makes it the oldest palatial structure in the Alhambra. The irrigation throughout the complex of pools, gardens, palaces, and fortifications is quite interesting and must have been a feat of engineering at the time.

In the Jardines del Partal and in one of the towers along the fortress wall is an Oratory or prayer room which was likely constructed during the time of Muhammad III but later updated by Yusaf I in 1333-1354 since it includes an inscription with his name.

The Palacio del Partal was one of my favorite areas of the complex. The arches, intricate ceiling, and reflecting pool made for a peaceful, balanced feeling.

Next, is the Renaissance Palace commissioned by Charles V of Spain in 1526 and is nestled amongst the more ancient Islamic building. However, the Palace of Charles V is also very beautiful and spectacular albeit with a notably different style.

At the western end of The Alhambra is the Alcazaba Fortress which was built by Muhammad I Ibn al-Ahmar sometime after 1238. It is an imposing structure with multiple defensive walls and moats making an attack very difficult.

On the southern wall of the fortress is the Jardin de los Adarves (Garden of the Ramparts). The garden was constructed here sometime in the 16th century when there were fewer military threats.

The main southern gate of The Alhambra is the Puerta de la Justicia or the Gate of Shari’a Law.

Above the door is a hand with 5 fingers symbolizing the Five Pillars of Islam (Muslim creed, Prayer, Charity, Fasting during Ramadan, and Pilgrimage to Mecca). The gate has an opening above where defenders could throw projectiles and the passage when you enter turns abruptly which would help to stall intruders as they funnel through the narrow turning passageway.

Generalife (jannat al-‘arīf or Garden of the Architect)

Outside of the defensive walls to the east side of the compound is Generalife (jannat al-‘arīf or Garden of the Architect) which was the summer palace of the Islamic Nasrid Rulers of the Emirate of Granada. It is believed to have been constructed by Muhammad I or II during the 13th or 14th century. Generalife is set amidst colorful sculpted gardens of vines and orange trees, fountains, and reflecting pools with excellent views of Alhambra’s defensive walls and towers.

The summer palace itself centers around the Patio de la Acequia (“Courtyard of the Water Canal”) which is aptly named.

The patio courtyard is enclosed on one side by arched windows that seemed to frame the view perfectly both when looking out at Alhambra and when turning inward towards the courtyard.

On the far side of the courtyard is the Royal Chamber and on the north side of that is the Mirador or Lookout with a carved wooden ceiling and decorated stucco walls and archways.

To the northeast of the Patio de la Acequia is another courtyard called the Patio de la Sultana (Courtyard of the Sultan).

Beyond this courtyard is a stairway that channels the water along the railings and in pools at each landing (Escalera del Agua). The management of the water flow throughout the palace, gardens, walkways, and even stairways, is simply amazing.

I would highly recommend seeing Alhambra and Generalife for the architecture, history, and sheer beauty of the place.

Note: I did not have tickets to the Nasrid Palaces which are inside Alhambra’s walls. Those tickets have to be purchased further in advance but I would suggest to get those as well if possible as the Nasrid Palaces are rumored to be fantastic.